13 Really Easy socks

This is my first attempt at sock knitting - the first sock is still on the needles, but it seems to be coming along well, so here is the pattern:

Wool: Patons, Patonyle 4 ply (100g ball), colour 1111 (blues and greys)

Needles:  Four 2.5mm double pointed needles (dpns) for each sock

Key:
dpns = double pointed needles
k = knit
p = purl
sl = slip stitch
sts = stitches
ssk = slip, slip, knit
p2tog = purl 2 together

Cast on 64 stitches. Divide over 3 dpns, ie 21 stitches on each needle
Work 16 rows in K1, P1 (on the round)
Work 64 rows in K (on the round) before attempting the heel

Heel flap: K14, place remaining instep stitches (sts) on stitch holder, turn, sl1, p31 (these 32 stitches are the heel flap sts). Slip remaining sts onto a stitch holder (these are the instep stitches and should be 31 in all).
Work the heel flap as follows: Attach reinforcing yarn (if used)
Row 1 (right side): sl1, k1, rep across
Row 2 (wrong side): sl 1, p across
Work 30 rows (15 slipped knit stitches on right side) end with Row 2

Turning heel: 
Row 1 (right side): sl1, k16, ssk, k1, turn
Row 2 (wrong side): sl1, p5, p2 tog, p1, turn
Row 3: sl1, k6, ssk, k1, turn
Row 4: sl1, p7, p2 tog, p1, turn
Continue as established, decreasing until all stitches are used up; end with right-side row, do not turn, do not decrease on last row (there should be 20 stitches on the last row, in total). Break off reinforcing yarn (if used)

Gusset:(right side facing)
With needle 1, pick 16 stitches along loops on inside edge of heel flap, pick up and twist an extra stitch at the juncture of the flap and instep.
On needle 2: Continue working pattern (ie purl) across instep 31 stitches
With needle 3: Pick up and twist and extra stitch, then pick up 16 stitches along the second edge of the heel flap, continue on heel flap stitches, ending round at the center back of the needle (85 stitches in total)

Adjust stitches on needles as follows:
Place 27 stitches on Needle 1 (or a stitch holder - to ensure that there is less likelihood of the stitches slipping off)
Place 31 instep stitches on Needle 2 (or a stitch holder)
Place 27 stitches on Needle 3 (or a stitch holder)

Decrease round:
Needle 1: k to last 3 sts, k2 tog, k1
Needle 2: Work instep pattern ie knit
Needle 3: k1, ssk, k to end of round
Repeat decrease every other round 12 times until a total of 61 sts remain (31 instep sts on Needle 2 and 15 sts each on Needles 1 and 3).
Reduce to 60 sts by knitting 2 tog in the next round
Put 30 sts on one needle and 30 sts on another and continue knitting on the round until the foot measures the desired length. (Try on sock to determine this)

Toe shaping:
Divide sts on needles as follows:
Needle 1= 15 sts, Needle 2 (top of toe) = 30 sts; Needle 3 = 15 sts
Decrease round:

Needle 1: k to last 3 sts, k2 tog, k1

Needle 2: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2 tog, k1

Needle 3: k1, ssk, k to end of round

Repeat decrease every other round until 20 sts remain, ending at side of toe. Break yarn, leaving about 15 inches to graft toe together. Place toe sts on 2 ndls; graft sts together. Darn in ends.

Now repeat the entire process again for the second sock :) 

12 Cloud vest

This was my first attempt at knitting an adult garment.

It is based on the 'Cloud Bolero' by Ysolde Teague, published in 'Yarn Forward' magazine, which is a free pattern. I modified the original pattern to lengthen it and add 4 rows to the sleeves. I did a plain cast off not the picot cast off. My changes to the pattern and the method I followed are in fuchsia pink. (NB: If you are following my pattern, then omit anything which is in black text and is highlighted in blue)  

I knitted the medium size and made two vests - one with Cleckheaton Vintage Twist and the other with Cleckheaton Country Silk  8 ply knitted on 8 mm circular needles. They look awesome over jeans, and a tight long-sleeved knit or T-shirt.

Sizes:
xs [s, m, l, xl, xxl].
To fit chest: 71 – 76 [81 – 86, 91.5 – 96.5, 101.5 –
107, 112 – 117, 122 – 127] cm (28-30 [32-34, 36-38, 40-42,44-46, 48-50] inches).

Yarn
requirements (approx): 2 [2, 2, 3, 3, 4] x 100g (100m) balls
Rowan Polar (60% wool, 30% alpaca, 10% acrylic). As this yarn has been discontinued you can use any aran or chunky weight yarn. Experiment with
some yarn in your stash!

Needles:
One 80cm or longer 8mm circular needle.

Tension:
12 sts and 16 rows to 10cm (4 inches) in st st using 8mm needles

Also
required: Stitch markers, 0.5m of 24mm ribbon or one button approx
½ inch wide

For the best results we recommend that you choose your size based on your
high bust measurement (measured directly under your armpits) rather than
your actual bust measurement.
At the most appropriate point for your size you will be directed to try
on the bolero. The sizing on this pattern is very simple and is designed
to be knitted to fit. The sizes are just used as a guide to when you should
try it on to check the fit, so don’t stress too much over selecting
the correct size initially.
When directed to try on the bolero slip all sts onto scrap yarn without
removing any markers. Drape around your shoulders and if the fronts meet
and there is no more than a 7.5cm (3”) gap at the underarms then
it is large enough. If it is too small follow the directions for the next
largest size before moving on to the next section. If it is too big, simply
rip out the last four rows before moving onto the next section.

Two
different styles or colours of stitch markers are required. These are
referred to in the directions as marker A and marker B, so that the abbreviation
‘pmA’ requires you to place an A marker in that position,
etc. A markers are used to mark the position of the raglan increases and
B markers are used to mark the beginning of lace repeats, which avoids
headache inducing amounts of stitch counting.

Section
1a (all sizes).

Cast
on 50 sts.
Row 1 (WS): k.

Row 2 (RS): k12, yo, pmA, k1, yo, k2, yo, pmA, k1, yo, k18, yo, pmA, k1,
yo, k2, yo, pmA, k1, yo, k12. 58 sts.

Row 3 (WS): k3, p to last 3 sts (slipping each marker as you come to it),
k3.

Row 4 (RS): k3, (yo, k1) 3 times, (k2tog) 3 times, k to 1st marker A,
yo, slm, k1, yo, k to next marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, k1, pmB, (k2tog)
3 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 3 times, k to next marker A, yo, slm,
k1, yo, k to next marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, k1, pmB, (k2tog) 3 times,
(yo, k1) 3 times, k3. 66 sts.

Row 5 (WS): k.

Row 6 (RS): k to 1st marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, k to next marker A, yo,
slm, k1, yo, k to next marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, k to next marker A,
yo, slm, k1, yo, k to end. 74 sts.

Row 7 (WS): k3, p to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 8 (RS): k3, (yo, k1) 3 times, (k2tog) 3 times, k to 1st marker A,
yo, slm, k1, yo, k to next marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, knit to next marker
B, (k2tog) 3 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 3 times, k to next marker
A, yo, slm, k1, yo, k to next marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, knit to next
marker B, (k2tog) 3 times, (yo, k1) 3 times, k3. 82 sts.

Row 9 (WS): k.

Repeat rows 6 to 9 twice, on the last row (row 17) remove both B markers
but leave A markers in position. 114 sts.

Row 18 (RS): k to 1st marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, k to next marker A, yo,
slm, k1, yo, k to next marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, k to next marker A,
yo, slm, k1, yo, k to end. 122 sts.

Row 19 (WS): k3, p to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 20 (RS): k3, (yo, k1) 3 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 3 times,
yo, slm, k1, yo, k1, pmB, (yo, k1) 3 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1)
3 times, k1, yo, slm, k1, yo, pmB (k1, yo) 3times, (k2tog) 6times, (yo,
k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 3 times, yo, slm, k1, yo k1, pmB,
(yo, k1) 3 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1), 3 times, k1, yo, slm, k1,
yo, pmB (k1, yo) 3 times, (k2tog) 6times, (yo, k1) 3 times, k3. 130 sts.

Row 21 (WS): k.

Row 22 (RS): k to 1st marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, k to next marker A, yo,
slm, k1, yo, k to next marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, k to next marker A,
yo, slm, k1, yo, k to end. 138 sts.

Row 23 (WS): k3, p to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 24 (RS): k3, (yo, k1) 3 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 3 times,
k to 1st marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, knit to next marker B, (yo, k1) 3
times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 3 times, k to next marker A, yo, slm,
k1, yo, knit to next marker B, (yo, k1) 3 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo,
k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 3 times, k to next marker A, yo,
slm, k1, yo, knit to next marker B, (yo, k1) 3 times, (k2tog) 6 times,
(yo, k1) 3 times, k to next marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, knit to next marker
B, (yo, k1) 3 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 3 times, k3. 146 sts.

Row 25 (WS): k. 

For
size xs try on now and if the fit is fine work section 2. 146 sts.
If it is too small repeat rows 22 to 25 once more before going to section
2. 162 sts.

Repeat
rows 22 to 25 once for size s and twice for all other sizes. 162 sts for
size s, 178 sts for all other sizes.
For sizes s and m try on now and if the fit is fine go to section 2.
If it is too small for size s repeat rows 22 and 25 once more before going
to section 2 and for size m work the first 4 rows of section 1b before
going to section 2.

Section
1b (size l, xl, xxl only):

Row 1 (RS): k to 1st marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, remove next marker B, k to
next marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, k to next marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, remove
next marker B, k to next marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, k to end. 186 sts.

Row 2 (WS): k3, p to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 3 (RS): k3, (yo, k1) 3 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 3 times, k
to 1st marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, pmB, (k2tog) 3 times, (yo, k1) 6 times,
(k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 3 times, yo, slmA, k1, yo,
knit to next marker B, (yo, k1) 3 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 6 times,
(k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 3 times, k to next marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo,
pmB, (k2tog) 3 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 6 times,
(k2tog) 3 times, yo, slmA, k1, yo, knit to next marker B, (yo, k1) 3times,
(k2tog) 6times, (yo, k1) 3 times, k3. 194 sts.

Row 4 (WS): k.(This became Row 37 in my garment)

For
size l try on now and if the fit is fine go to section 2.
If it is too small work the following 4 rows before going to section 2.

Row
5 (RS): k to 1st marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, k to next marker A, yo, slm,
k1, yo, remove next marker B, k to next marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, k to
next marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, remove next marker B, k to end. 202 sts.
Row 6 (WS): k3, p to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 7 (RS): k3, (yo, k1) 3 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog)
3 times, k to 1st marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, knit to next marker B, (k2tog)
3 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog)
3 times, k to next marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, pmB, (k2tog) 3 times, (yo,
k1) 6times, (k2tog) 6times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1)
6 times, (k2tog) 3 times, k to next marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, knit to
next marker B, (k2tog) 3 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo,
k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 3 times, k to next marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, k1,
pmB, (k2tog) 3 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 3 times,
k3. 210 sts.
Row 8 (WS): k.

For
size xl try on now and if the fit is fine go to section 2.
If it is too small work the following four rows before going to section
2.

Row
9 (RS): k to 1st marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, k to next marker A, yo, slm,
k1, yo, k to next marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, k to next marker A, yo, slm,
k1, yo, k to end. 218 sts.
Row 10 (WS): k3, p to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 11 (RS): k3, (yo, k1) 3 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 6 times,
(k2tog) 3 times, k to 1st marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, knit to next marker
B, (k2tog) 3 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 6 times,
(k2tog) 3 times, k to next marker A, yo, slm, k1, yo, knit to next marker
B, (k2tog) 3 times, (yo, k1) 6times, (k2tog) 6times, (yo, k1) 6 times,
(k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 3 times, k to next marker A,
yo, slm, k1, yo, knit to next marker B, (k2tog) 3 times, (yo, k1) 6 times,
(k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 3 times, k to next marker A,
yo, slm, k1, yo, knit to next marker B, (k2tog) 3 times, (yo, k1) 6 times,
(k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 3 times, k3. 226 sts.
Row 12 (WS): k.

For
size xxl try on now, if it is too small work the last 4 rows once more
before going to section 2.

Section 2 (all sizes):
Row 1 (RS) ie Row 38 in my pattern:  remove all B markers as you come to them: k to 1st marker A,
remove marker, cast off 3, (sl st on right needle back onto left needle,
cast on 2, cast off 5), repeat until less than 3 sts remain before next
marker A, sl st on right needle back onto left needle, cast on 2, cast
off (NB: The preceding text highlighted in blue pertains to the picot edging 

which I did not do. Here is what I did instead): Transfer all sleeve sts before 

marker A onto scrap yarn,  remove marker A,  k to nextmarker A, slm, 

cast off 3, (sl st on right needle back onto left needle,

cast on 2, cast off 5,) repeat until less than 3 sts remain before next
marker A, sl st on right needle back onto left needle, cast on 2, cast
off remaining sts before next marker A, remove marker A, cast off 1, 

(NB: The preceding text highlighted in blue pertains to the picot edging 

which I did not do. Here is what I did instead): Transfer all sleeve sts before 

marker A onto scrap yarn, remove marker A, k to end.

You should now have the left front, the back, and the right front all still
on the needles with the sleeve sts between them bound off with a picot
bind off   (NB: If you are following my pattern, then omit the text which is 

highlighted in blue) transferred onto scrap yarn. In the next row you are going to 

bridge the underarm gap between the front and back sections by working 

up to the gap, casting on 12 or 14 sts, and then working across the next section.

Row 2 (WS): k3, p to 1st marker A, cast on12 [12, 12, 12, 14, 14], p to next
marker A, cast on 12 [12, 12, 12, 14, 14], p to last 3 sts, k3. 114 [122,
130, 138, 150, 158] sts.

Row 2 (ie Row 39 in my pattern): K3, p to last 3 sts, K3

Section
3a (sizes xs, s, m and l only):

Row 1 (RS): k3, (yo, k1) 3 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog)
6 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 6 times,
(yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 6 times,
(yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo,
k1) 3 times, k3.

Row 2 (WS): k.

Row 3 (RS): k.

Row 4 (WS): k3, p to last 3 sts, k3.

Repeat
last 4 rows 4 times, or until the bolero reaches the desired length.


Sleeve edges: 
Row 1 : Knit
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: Cast off knit-wise

Section
3b (sizes xl and xxl only):

Row
1 (RS): k3, (yo, k1) 3 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog)
6 times, (yo, k1) 3 times, k0[4], (yo, k1) 3 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo,
k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo,
k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 3 times, k0[4], (yo, k1) 3 times,
(k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 6 times, (yo, k1) 3 times,
k3.
Row 2 (WS): k.
Row 3 (RS): k.
Row 4 (WS): k3, p to last 3 sts, k3.

Repeat
last 4 rows 4 times, or until the bolero reaches the desired length.

Picot
cast off (all sizes): cast off 3, (sl st on right needle back onto left
needle, cast on 2, cast off 5), repeat until less than 3 sts remain before
end, cast off remaining sts.

Finishing:
weave in ends, and thread ribbon through top corner eyelet holes on either
side and tie in a bow. Alternately use a brooch or button to fasten.

11 Suntrap Lace and cables scarf

This stunningly beautiful scarf is a free download from Beyenburgerin's Weblog. Again, I am copying the pattern here just in case the pattern ever becomes unavailable from her blog. I hesitated almost a year before attempting this pattern and it turned out to be relatively easy to do. The following pattern is copied in verbatim off her blog. I started and ended with 2 rows of stockinette stitch and used Lincraft golden yellow 8 ply hobby wool on 4.5 mm needles

Experience: Intermediate

Size:

about  28 x 185 cm/ about 11 inches wide and 73 inches long

Materials:

1 ball of wool, should be about 100 g of weight Yardage 320 m / 355 yards 4.5 (US 7) needle Note: The lace pattern is knitted with thicker needles. The yarn should be made for about 3 mm/ US 3 needles

Gauge:

16 st, 26 rows/ 4” over pattern  after blocking

Abbreviations and Pattern:

k = knit

X = double edge stitch, see below

Y = put 3 stitches on an cable/extra needle behind the workpiece, k3tog, put 3 stitches from the extra needle back on the left needle and k3 them, k3 (9 stitches will be 7 after this)

Z = k3, put 3 stitches on an cable/extra needle in front of the workpiece, k3, put 3 stitches from the extra needle back on the left needle and k3tog them, (9 stitches will be 7 after this)

sl2-k1-p2sso = slip 2 stiches knitwise, k1, passed slipped stitches over yo = yarn overk2tog = knit 2 togethersl-k1-psso = slip one stitch, k1 the next, pass slipped stitch over

Note:

If you have difficulties with knitting k3tog, just do k2tog and put the stitch back on the left needle and slip the 3rd stitch over, then put the stitch on the right needle.

Double edge stitch (2 stitches twisted):

In the beginning of the second row: 2^nd stitch k, then 1^st stitch k, then let both stitches slip from the needle at the same timeAt the end of the row: knit until there are 2 stitches left, knit last stitch k1 tbl by keeping the needle behind the stitches, k1 the 2^nd stitch from the edge, let both stitches slip from the left needle at the same time. In the back/even rows every stitch is knitted, even those at the edges.

Instructions:

Cast on 37 stiches, knit 2 rows stockinette.

All back/even rows are knitted in stockinette

Knitting the pattern:

Row 1: X, sl-k1-psso, yo, sl-k1-psso, yo, sl-k1-psso  yo, k7, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, sl-k1-psso, yo, sl-k1-psso, yo, k7, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, sl-k1-psso, yo, k, X

Row 3: X, sl-k1-psso,yo, sl-k1-psso, yo, sl-k1-psso, yo, k8, yo, sl-k1-psso, yo, sl-k1-psso, yo, sl-k1-psso, yo, k8, yo, sl-k1-psso, yo, sl-k1-psso, yo, k, X

Row 5: X, sl-k1-psso, yo, sl-k1-psso, yo, sl-k1-psso, yo, Y, yo, sl-k1-psso, yo, sl-k1-psso, yo, sl-k1-psso, yo, Y,  yo, sl-k1-psso, yo, sl-k1-psso, yo, k, X

Row 7: X, k, yo, k2tog, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k7, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, sl2-k1-p2sso, yo, k7, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, X

Row 9: X, k, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, k8, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, k8, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, X

Row 11: X, k, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, Z, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, Z, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, X

If the scarf has the desired length, k 1 row after the 12th row of the pattern. Then cast of as follows:*p2tog, slip stitch back on the left needle* repeat from * to *

Finishing: 
Weave in loose ends. Soak scarf in warm water for 20 minutes, wrap in towel to remove excess water. Block the scarf on a surface where you can put a pin in every jag. Let it dry this way, it will stay in the zigzag shape then.